By Kate Love

In the realm of clean beauty, the journey of Mukti Organics and its founder has been a beacon of truth and guidance. Through her book "Truth in Beauty," Mukti has shed light on the complexities of the beauty industry and inspired countless individuals to embrace a more mindful approach to their skincare routines. In this exclusive interview, Mukti shares her insights on the evolution of the clean beauty movement, offers tips for navigating product labels and explores the practical steps we can take to reduce our toxic burden and honour our skin’s natural needs.

The Toxic-Free Guide: Uncover the Truth Behind Product Labels and Embrace a Low-Toxic Lifestyle

The Journey of Clean Beauty: Your book "Truth in Beauty" has been a guiding light for many in the clean beauty movement. How has this journey evolved, and what inspired you to delve deeper and expand on your original work?

Mukti Organics has been around for 24 years and in that time the clean beauty movement has certainly evolved! When I first launched the brand, it really felt like a very niche space. Back then I would have to research ingredients in the library (pre-internet days) because I really felt like I had no one to turn to for advice. I realised pretty quickly that I would need to study cosmetic formulation to understand a mostly ‘unknown’ space of organic, natural and sustainable brands. It was definitely a case of ‘paving my own way’ and still sometimes feels like that. That said, there is a beauty of delving into those unchartered waters - I have learnt a lot along the way! My knowledge of those years in the beauty space sparked the idea to write the first version of Truth in Beauty in 2018. While the first edition was a best seller in Australia, I felt compelled to write another edition. You may be wondering ‘why?’… Well, a New York Times article published in February of 2023 titled, “Many Personal Care Products Contain Harmful Chemicals. Here’s What to Do About It. – Take these small steps to lower your exposure.” sparked the idea. As I read through the article and the corresponding comments (over 700), I realised that there was a high level of both curiosity and concern and that the information I had previously compiled could reach a larger audience. This fuelled me to complete the overhaul of Truth in Beauty, the revised edition. It features modern day updates and facts that lift the lid on the dark side of the beauty industry. But also is a guide for anyone wanting to learn to live a toxic free life.

Unveiling the Truth in Labels: In a world filled with marketing jargon and superficial claims, how can we cultivate a deeper understanding of product labels and make more mindful choices about what we put on our skin?

One of the biggest challenges with beauty products is regulation around labels. This includes everything from logos and symbols, to claims such as natural, organic, and hypoallergenic. Reading a label can really be a confusing experience because it is filled with clever marketing speak, unsubstantiated claims and downright unethical practices. Even if you hold a degree in cosmetic chemistry or scrutinise labels for a living, the task of evaluating a products safety and composition can be a laborious challenge.

My advice for understanding a label is to almost ignore the front of the label because brands typically feature trending ingredients there to attract consumers, but upon closer inspection, it becomes apparent that these ingredients are often included in minuscule quantities compared to the overall formulation. In many cases, the amount is so negligible that the purported beneficial effects of these ingredients may be virtually insignificant. So how do we figure this out? Turn to the back of the label and divide it into thirds.

Start by examining the ingredient's position on the product label because ingredients are typically listed in descending order by volume. Water (or 'aqua') is frequently listed at the top, followed by silicone fillers such as cyclopentasiloxane or dimethicone. These products are commonly found in discount pharmacies and supermarkets.

The further down an ingredient appears on the list, the lower its percentage in the formulation. Products with significant levels of active ingredients should generally feature these ingredients closer to the middle of the list. Ingredients present at a concentration of less than 1% can be listed in any order.

Understanding how ingredients are listed on product labels can empower consumers to make informed choices and select products that align with their preferences and expectations.

Ingredients to Watch Out For: Your A-Z blacklist is a treasure trove of knowledge. Could you share some insights on a few particularly concerning ingredients in everyday products and why it's crucial for us to avoid them for our wellbeing?

I certainly can! Consumers can take action right now by actively avoiding PFAS in their beauty products. No matter what country you live in, humans are exposed to ‘invisible’ chemicals in the beauty industry every single day, and PFAS are just one example of these. They haven’t been dubbed ‘forever chemicals’ for no reason – they can accumulate in the body over time and have been linked to various health issues. Start by checking product labels for the presence of specific PFAS compounds or look for products that explicitly state they are PFAS-free. Choosing products with natural and organic ingredients can also reduce the likelihood of PFAS exposure.

Then, another big culprit which is ubiquitous is fragrance. While the words ‘fragrance’ or ‘parfum’ on a cosmetic or skincare label sounds harmless, the fact is, it could contain anywhere between 10 to 300 potentially neurotoxic and carcinogenic chemicals from a pool of thousands. That’s not to mention the long term and culminative effects that synthetic fragrances can have, such high levels of musk causing infertility and ovarian failure, and even contributing to brain cell degeneration and Parkinson’s disease.

There is of course a big long list of ingredients that I typically suggest to avoid, and some others are parabens, phthalates, talc, lead and the list goes on. The list is extensive which is why I formulated the A-Z Blacklist to provide an easy guide for readers.

Embracing a Low-Toxic Lifestyle: What are some practical, everyday steps we can take to reduce our toxic burden and align our skincare routines with a more holistic, mindful lifestyle?

A great place to start is with a Personal Care Audit (this is something I also talk about in the book). Rather than attempting to eliminate a specific chemical from your life, consider the following approach: assess the number of products in your daily routine that contain questionable ingredients and gradually reduce their usage. You can repeat this process periodically to continually minimise your exposure to these substances.

Start by focusing on products that remain in direct contact with your skin for extended periods. For instance, scrutinise the ingredients in your lipstick or moisturiser more closely compared to those in products applied to your hair or that are rinsed off immediately. Your make-up kit and facial care products will likely take precedence over auditing your entire body care, but products used in the shower and post bathing can be more serious offenders in terms of the level of exposure to unwanted chemicals, and the amount of product you use is vastly greater than if you are applying a face cream or a touch of blush. If you use conventional products, take into consideration how often you bathe, what you use and also consider the effect on the environment as they wash down the drain.

Additionally, consider scaling back on harsh products you may have been using for many years, while allowing yourself some flexibility with newer products, especially those reserved for special occasions when you want to look glamorous.

Being informed is knowledge and knowledge is power. It allows you to leverage yourself. It’s not about acting out of fear and panic, but rather a process of elimination to protect yourself and make informed choices.

Honouring Our Skin's Natural Needs: Our skin changes as we journey through life. How can we honour these changes and nurture our skin naturally, ensuring that we remain connected to our true selves at every age?

Understanding how the ageing process occurs can assist with maintaining your skin, identifying, and treating issues as they arise. The first step is always preventative. Although you can’t change your genetic make-up, you can, to a certain extent, change your environment and how you interact with it.

Intrinsic ageing is the natural ageing process and relates to your internal or chronological age and genetic predisposition. It’s the natural ageing process that occurs over time due to internal factors. Key processes involved are cell senescence and specific genes, like longevity genes, that can assist you to live longer. The breakdown of communication between the cells is a key variable in how you age and may explain why people of the same chronological age fare differently compared to their biological age. Genetic and family history can also play a significant role in how your skin ages over time.

Extrinsic ageing, also referred to as external ageing, primarily relates to environmental factors that influence and accelerate the ageing process. This is where we can actively make changes to benefit our future selves.

Extrinsic ageing is accelerated by external influences like sun exposure, smoking, pollution, and lifestyle choices. Protecting your skin from extrinsic ageing factors through a healthy diet, proper skincare and sun protection is crucial to maintaining youthful and healthy skin.

In Conversation with Mukti on “Truth in Beauty”